I’m eager to try! Why is 70-75% the magic number? I tried not preheating the DO but that didn’t seem to help. I saw someone advise to try using a lower hydration when working with whole spelt because of the extensibility of the dough. Country French Baguettes. It's like a woodworker sitting in their precisely constructed no-nail design chair, corners fitting just so and pieces curved where they're to be curved, straight where they're to be straight. After 30 minutes,  stretch and fold the dough: Repeat this 4 times at 30 minute intervals, then let the dough rest for 6 to 18 hours or until the dough has nearly doubled and there are bubbles throughout. Enjoy the bucket! Because it’s clear, it allows me to see when the dough is filled with bubbles and activity throughout — top, bottom, sides, etc. If you cannot find bread flour — I know supplies are limited at the moment — you can use all-purpose flour. Water, organic whole wheat flour, organic wheat flour, organic rye flour, organic whole wheat sourdough… Hi. Check out “my fitness pal dot com” or another site for nutritional information. The wholesome taste and hearty texture of this bread wriggled the idea of the loaf forward in my mind, surfacing the desire unconsciously as if I spontaneously discovered it. Because of health issues I need to use whole wheat flour exclusively for the recipe. And as with all sourdough baking (and bread baking in general), it does take time, though the time is mostly hands off. I truly feel this is what sourdough is all about — trial and error and finding a path that works for you. With sourdough baking, you have to be patient, and you have to be flexible with the timing. Bummer to hear this. It’s a little bit smaller than most sourdough boules, too, reasons for which I explain below. Spelt Trial #3: Whole Spelt Sourdough Bread Eric at Breadtopia, says, “Spelt is known for its health benefits and naturally sweet nutty flavor.” Eric at Breadtopia offered this, “whole grain spelt recipe leavened with sourdough starter. Stone-milled flour, contrary to roller-milled flour, is flour made from wheat that passes through a stone mill, the process of which keeps the endosperm, bran, and germ together. There are so many recipes with different ratios out there, I was wondering how you ended up with your specific recipe. It seems to bring not only abundant wheaty flavors but also a deep color to the crust. Out of curiosity, what brand or type of whole wheat flour are you planning on using? What a pleasure to find Alexandra’s Kitchen! Kalamata Olive & Garlic Sourdough (V) Apricot-Date Walnut Sourdough. The only shame is that I’ve discovered it just now! I don’t like using more than 100g (25%) of stone-milled flour in this recipe. I would guess another 25-30 minutes. Hi! Additionally, there are countless variables that affect fermentation: type of flour, water, salt quantity, strength of the starter, to name a few. Then turn down the heat to 350 degrees F (leaving the loaves in the … Wonderful to hear this, Renata! If you are sensitive to salt, start with 8g. Then, remove the steaming pans from inside the oven (or remove the lid to your combo cooker or Dutch oven) and bake for an additional 30-35 minutes, or until done. Hello! Thanks! I just wanted to thank you for this wonderful recipe! When you are doing folds/turns and letting the dough bulk ferment at room temperature, I would use a tea towel or something else that is breathable. Thank you for your time. magazine! Sorry for the delay here. However, Working with hard red winter berry whole wheat flour in a long rise sourdough bread is challenging because… The heavier whole wheat flours (like Winter wheat) are stickier than all purpose white bread flours. Used a mix of AP and KA white whole wheat (b/c that was what I had) and only a couple grams of salt. I am finally happy with the outcome of my sourdough loaves and focaccia. I’m wondering if I can double this recipe to make a larger boule in a bigger Dutch oven. and decided to spring for a dough bucket (the 4 qt Cabrio) and have a wonder (sorry if you addressed this already- so many comments to read I gave up looking after a while)…. Using my fridge for the proofing phase has been the biggest change in my sourdough process of late. As much nutty as sour, this bread is deeply satisfying and extraordinarily healthful. So wonderful to hear this, Susan! This is my favorite sourdough bread: It’s high hydration, whole wheat(ish), and just so darn tasty. The hydration level for this white spelt flour sourdough bread is at about 71% so it is easy to handle and therefore simple to make. is it important to cover the dough bucket with something porous like a tea towel or breathable bowl cover or can one use the lid of the bucket? Weekend baking: Tartine’s buttermilk scones, ora, On old favorite: one-bowl, orange-ricotta pound ca, If you’ve made your way through your stash of ho, There are few things a spicy, garlicky, crispy cap, If you are under the impression you have to spend, whole wheat flour isn’t necessarily healthier. Sourdough is often described as a journey. I think this is the kind of thing you are going to have to experiment with. Baking a loaf of beautiful crusty bread can be intimidating for beginners, especially when you want to include nutrient-dense whole wheat flour and other ancient grains that are famously harder to work with. My oven has been out of commission. A loaf made with 100% whole wheat flour is going to be on the dense side, which is fine, but just manage your expectations going into it. Or can I do this straight from the fridge? I use a toaster at breakfast for slices of bread, and I reheat half or quarter loaves in the oven at 350ºF for 15 to 20 minutes when serving for dinner. So nice to hear this, thank you If you are storing the dough in the fridge, you can use the lid the bucket comes with. Spelt sourdough bread will have the taste that all ancient bakers were looking for when making bread with this ancient grain species. I wanted to include quantities that make hydration easier to understand. Can I just use this recipe for all 4? The Grains That Make This Loaf Special. The extended cold proof creates a lighter, airier crumb. *Please read notes above before proceeding. It's a variety that struck me as something different the first time I baked with it, and there's a reason why you can now find it more and more, it's that delightful. I am constantly amazed by how the pilot light causes trouble for people … you wouldn’t think it could, but sourdough is just so sensitive. Troubleshooting: If you have issues with your dough being too sticky, please read this post: Why is my sourdough so sticky? I find it so helpful for assessing the bulk fermentation. Thank you, thank you! If you are looking for a good mail-order resource, I can recommend a few: Finally: Here’s a great resource if you’re interested in learning more about wheat and flour: The Bread Lab. Ingredients: The loaves tasted great, but very flat shape. With one bowl, a handful of simple ingredients, minimal kneading and less than 24 hours, you can have a loaf of delicious whole grain sourdough bread on the table. INGREDIENTS. To ensure it is ready, drop a spoonful of it in a glass of water. The more I make it, the more this sentiment becomes a truth. My kitchen is cool, so did the bulk ferment overnight for the full 12 hrs and proofed for just 4 in the kitchen w/ good flavor and crumb. A weak, fragile dough is hard to handle and difficult to shape into a tight round, which in turn makes for a dense loaf. Like making your sourdough starter, the process of making spelt sourdough bread may seem intimidating at first glance, just take it step by step and you’ll have fresh bread on your counter in no time. Two of the most frequently asked questions I receive about sourdough bread baking are: If you are unfamiliar with sourdough baking, these two questions relate to two distinct phases of fermentation: One thing I have learned through troubleshooting with various people is that it’s very hard to put a timeline on these two phases. Hydration is something I don’t discuss too often because I find it can turn people off (me included). Newer to natural sourdough, but found the advice to avoid over fermenting key to correcting defects I’ve had in past loaves. The freshly milled, stone-milled flours offer so much flavor. Whole wheat flour will be denser and won’t rise as much as white flour. How do I store bread? Omnivore. I like breads to be a little bit saltier than standard. Next time, adjust salt as you wish. I certainly do taste a wide range of flavors locked up in this bread, characteristics amplified by the striking crust, soft texture, and the overall joy of everything in its right place. Whole Wheat. Thank you. Reference the video to see what the texture of the dough should look like. Thanks to this tutorial, videos and recipe, I now bake sourdough at least once a week if not more. As you know, the crust is likely my favorite part of a good loaf of bread, and this one fills up all the wants I might have, making me carve slices from the loaf a bit wider than is sensible. As I mentioned above, try to hit a final dough temperature of 78-80°F (26-27°C). This post might include affiliate links. Of course, it's likely all of this is simply a result of my obsession with baking naturally leavened bread. I recommend buying a starter (reasons for which I explain here). Thank you for your writing style, it really makes the whole process very enjoyable to read, all the way from first read to many subsequent references. A W E S O M E as well, but I’m sure you already know that, haha! I have lots of friends that make this type of bread but use yeast instead of a starter. Just wondering whether there was a way to maintain the hydration ration without having a puddle of dough. If it doesn’t, consider feeding it twice a day for a couple of days. It fits every piece in the right groove, makes it all just taste right, shifting flavors and textures like fragments of colored glass from one bite to the next. When sourdoughs rise for too long, the dough weakens. It’s on the short side, usually close to the 4 hours. Anything else to consider? I do proclaim this is a great recipe that is sure to make those who eat it smile, perhaps with even a split-second eye closure to savor the moment1. They’re simply not accurate. The other unique addition to this bread is whole … Baking with stone-milled flours requires a little more finesse. In the past few years, it has become easier to find stone-milled flour, and if you are up for it, you should seek out locally, stone-milled flour. Can I double the recipe and bake it as a larger loaf and if so for how long? Because the bran and germ are present in the flour, it’s also more flavorful. This one costs $9. Thanks so much for writing . I like how this flour portion is smaller and with some whole grain flour. I loved the nutty, slightly sweet flavor that the spelt flour gives this pita. If you're familiar with the flour you're using and you know it can handle it, proceed, otherwise, you might want to withhold more water through mixing than the 100g I do (I'd suggest 200g). Yes, less water to start definitely helps and the taste doesn’t suffer too much! Because judging bulk fermentation and proofing can be tricky, you can use your refrigerator during both phases. Then I took a look at your helpful comment replies, and I realised I was indeed using all-purpose flour instead of bread flour. Though someone messaged me recently telling me he had baked the sourdough sandwich bread in a covered Pullman loaf, and it worked beautifully. But even when you bake with high-extraction, stone-milled flour, the finished loaf, when made from 100% of this type of flour, will be very dense. When you baked this one in a loaf pan, did you use a covered loaf pan? I’ve been using a mix of Anson Mills. An, “oh, I should bake this bread this week!”—as if I hadn't already made up my mind minutes before as the wind howled, as the fading snow seemed to turn the oven on itself. How do I know if it has proofed sufficiently and is therefore ready to be baked? For two reasons: If I could single out the biggest lesson I’ve learned in my sourdough baking journey, it’s this: Do not allow sourdough rise beyond double during the bulk fermentation. Because I was so impressed with your brioche cinn roll recipe, I checked our your website, and I’ve watched your videos and read through your sourdough “wheatish” bread recipe. I want to try your recipe, but I’m afraid my starter might not be “powerful” enough. I want to try your recipe, but I’m afraid my starter might not be “powerful” enough. A recipe I'm sure to keep baking long into Spring, Summer, Fall, and certainly next winter. The next morning, preheat your oven with baking stone/steel for one hour at 500°F (260°C). Absolutely thrilled. Because if you’re buying locally milled flour, you likely can find out how recently it was milled. I would do the same temperature, and I would bake it covered for the same amount of time (30 minutes); then bake it uncovered for longer — you’ll have to use your judgment. Apple Turnover. Whole wheat flour, similarly, is made from rolled-milled wheat: again, first the kernel is separated into three parts: the endosperm, germ, and bran; BUT then the germ and the bran are added back in various proportions. Hi Christina! A successful loaf to be sure. For the past few years, I’ve been tinkering with various sourdough recipes, and though I can’t say I won’t stop tinkering, this is the current snapshot of my sourdough journey. Thanks for making our family sourdough addicts. When the dough is mostly smooth and starts to hold its shape on the counter, transfer it to a container for bulk fermentation and cover. This is a short and warm levain build, try to target a final dough temperature of 78-80°F (26-27°C) by warming the mixing water to ensure it's fully ripe and ready for use after three hours. I tried to follow all other procedures exactly… I wonder if you have any thoughts? I do think doing the second rise in the fridge is important especially if you want to achieve a light crumb. This videos and photos below shows how to make from start to finish the high-hydration, whole wheat(-ish) sourdough bread recipe included at the end of the post. Protein Content – 17%; Strength – Low on the W Index (i.e. See my post on the best way to store bread to keep it fresher, longer. Love the shape! A good loaf of bread for me has so much to do with texture. Add them with the flour. Be sure to preshape this dough rather tight to give it extra strength and to prevent excessive spreading on the counter. Yes, I wouldn’t do more than that… I might even start with 50 grams … but if you’re OK working with a stickier dough, then go with 100 grams. So helpful for others. (Note: More and more, I encourage ending the bulk fermentation when the dough has increased in volume by 50%.). Attitude is everything. You deserve many more than 5 stars for this one! Add the called for flour and all but 100g of the water to a mixing bowl. I use 10g. Were the good spirits watching over me? or more!). Great to hear it turned out well. ©2021 Alexandra's Kitchen. During the three and a half hour bulk fermentation, give the dough three sets of stretch and folds. 1) Why does your bread use such little starter (100g) compared to KAF recipe(227g) per loaf? Means the world Yes, I do use a starter with the peasant bread sometimes. Yes! Why is 70-75% the magic number? Using your hands, mix to incorporate the ingredients until there are no dry bits of flour remaining. Hey bakers!I have decided to experiment with 100% whole grain sourdough breads lately, so below is the recipe for my 100% Whole Grain Spelt Sourdough Boule. For this reason, I use at the most 25% stone-milled flour (100 g for this recipe), but preferably in terms of texture, 12.5% stone-milled flour (50 g for this recipe). The proportions in this recipe — 300g water and 400g flour — make it a little easier to see it’s a 75% hydration dough: 300/400=0.75. Why? After months of sourdough fails, THIS RECIPE worked perfectly! This means they can make a great low FODMAP bread option. The loaves came out great, and with more confidence than when I started, I began to check out other sourdough recipes. Last week I made my first loaves and followed King Arthur Flour natural leavened sourdough recipe almost to a fault. Also, Dan Barber’s The Third Plate was eye opening. This Troubleshooting Post may help you identify your issues. Let the dough rest after the last set of stretch and folds for the remainder of bulk fermentation. I baked these loaves on my Baking Steel in my oven: see my post on how to steam your home oven for baking. Your email address will not be published. Make Delicious, Whole Grain Bread with Minimal Kneading Selected as one of the best cookbooks of 2020 by delicious. Good luck! These days, I like to stick the shaped boule in the fridge for at least 12 hours, but ideally 18-24 hours. Let me know if you have any other questions! Using lower protein white flour (without any stronger flour mixed in) helped, but so too did the increased levain percentage, higher hydration, employing a higher final dough temperature, and fully and sufficiently fermenting the dough. With sourdough, there are any number of places things can go wrong. I have a feeling your starter is just fine, but to be sure, next time you feed it, monitor how long it takes to double in volume. I followed the directions to a T. I used 50g of Oregon dark northern rye. Joseph's Low Carb MINI Pita Bread 2-Pack, Flax, Oat Bran and Whole Wheat, 5g Carbs Per Serving (8 Per Pack, 16 MINI Pita Breads Total) 4.4 out of 5 stars 701 $19.95 $ 19 . Thanks so much for writing! I think bake time should be: covered for 30 minutes (so, the same); then uncovered for probably 25 minutes or so…just keep an eye on it and bake it till it’s browned to your liking. If you do go with a batard, I would suggest shaping it a little tighter than usual, and when scoring, a double (or triple) score will help eke out a bit more rise3. If it doubles in volume within 6 hours (or even a little bit more), it will be fine. Don’t use gluten-free flours. Cover with plastic … Pat M. Hi Pat! After 18 to 24 hours, transfer dough to a sheet of parchment paper. I’m Italian AND a blogger myself, I’ve always nailed focaccia with instant yeast (I actually have a recipe on my blog if you’d like to take a look) but I was never happy with the outcome of the ones with sourdough starter….until I discovered your gorgeous blog! Lately, I find myself inadvertently nudged toward baking this recipe, an inclination for vibrant and flavorful food to combat the chilly weather outside. Hi Linda! The hydration of this one and the simple sourdough are basically the same … I prefer this one as well for its smaller size. Read the label: Make sure the label says 100% spelt flour or spelt bread. Your support means a great deal to me. Thanks for the tips! Mix well and cover loosely for 3 hours. Thank you. And the answer to the question about overnight bulk rise in fridge and then immediate bench rest and proofing loaves (I double) in fridge was exactly what I needed. There are so many recipes with different ratios out there, I was wondering how you ended up with your specific recipe. Oh Barbara, so nice to read all of this. Add this reserved water in slowly through mixing if it feels like the dough can handle the addition. So nice to hear this, Swati! Funny, I had the same scenario happen to me last night/this morning, so this morning, I turned out the cold dough onto my work surface and let it rest for 45 minutes. Is it the texture of the crust or the tenderness of the crumb altering my taste, or is it the perception of the loaf itself. Hi Carlee! The wheat most people are familiar with is just one or two varieties of grasses in a family called Triticum.While bread wheat (T. aestivum) will yield consistently good results in sourdough bread baking, home bakers may wish to try out some other varieties for fun, nutrition, and flavor.Here are some grains that can be found in health food stores and large supermarkets. As noted above, the recipe below makes a loaf that’s a little bit smaller for two reasons: *Note: This is a crude calculation. Final note: I no longer buy commercial whole wheat flours. Traditional sourdough breads made from wheat, wholemeal wheat, and spelt flours are low FODMAP because they contain reduced levels of fructans (2). I used whole grain Flourist Red Fife for the whole wheat percentage of this recipe, which added significant character to this already flavorful bread. What is the highest amount of freshly milled wheat flour do you recommend for this? I often slice bread as soon as it cools completely, transfer the slices to a ziplock bag, then freeze. (Read the post above for more details and why I suggest stone-milled flour as opposed to commercial whole wheat flour.) I believe the spelt flour costs $10 for the same bag. Please read my disclosure policy. Much the same way a barista might salivate at the sight of a properly pulled espresso as the aroma just touches the nose, conjuring that recent summer strawberry, the allusion of toffee, black licorice. Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover it, and let it rise until almost doubled, about 60 to 90 … Hi Angela! Hi Sela! And to you and your beautiful family Ali!! The standard percentage of salt in a bread recipe is 2% by weight of the flour. Article updated: 20th July 2018 How is traditional sourdough bread made? Hi Liz! While bread is rising, preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. When the bread has risen, bake it at 400 degrees F for 5 minutes. Wonderful to hear this, Allison! That’s great re KAF recipe and your results. Check out the Slap and Fold Guide Page for more information on this technique. If you struggle with these assessments, I have two tips for you: After my digital scale, my clear, straight-sided 4-qt Cambro (**this one is BPA-free! For me, 75% hydration is about as high as I can go with sourdough without the dough becoming unmanageable (though recently I’ve experimented with high hydration doughs and am having some success). Great to hear all of this. The boon? Your recipe is magnificent and easy to follow! Spelt Bread. It's bread like this that gets me excited and propelled to keep baking and experimenting. But I wanted something light and white-ish, and that’s how this recipe came about. I find locally milled stone-milled flours at a local co-op, Honest Weight Food Co-op, and I also order from Anson Mills. Then, place the dough in the final proofing basket. Have you had success using it with other sourdough bread recipes? In my email course, Foolproof Bread Baking, I receive a lot of questions about how to incorporate more whole grain flours into bread. It worked just fine, but I like using more starter, mostly because I like using my starter — I try to keep my starter on the lean side, but even so, when I feed it, I always have more than 100 g of starter, and I like to use most of it when I bake as opposed to storing it, after which time it may get discarded. Step 1: Gather your ingredients — flour, salt, water, a sourdough starter — and equipment, namely a digital scale. And thank you so much for buying my book. Match these two up with the smidgen of whole grain rye, and you can see the flavor profile take shape. The rub with stone-milled flour? is one of the most frequently asked questions I receive. Your tips were incredibly helpful. If you have a bunch of different types of flour lying around and need to make up for part of the spelt, a combination is fine too. I’ve tried what certainly feels like every sourdough recipe known to Google and this is by far the best – I’m almost embarrassed by how outrageously complimentary people are, even those who do not usually eat bread. I've tried making this bread with both 100% whole wheat and stone ground spelt… Whole wheat pastry flour is never a good choice for bread. Great to hear all of this, Patrick! Spelt Sourdough Bread Recipe . Thanks so much for writing . You can use either of those recipes and after the bulk fermentation, split the dough in half, transfer to buttered Pyrex bowls, and let the dough rise at room temperature till it crowns the rim of the bowls. Most recently I shoot to shape the dough when it has increased by 50% in volume. This focaccia bread recipe and this sandwich loaf recipe essentially are the peasant bread proportions but with a sourdough starter added to the mix and the water reduced slightly. The result was freshly milled flour with a captivating aroma brimming with possibility. Fill a bowl with a little water and place near your work surface. Pleasantly thin, deeply colored (you'll see some more than others in this post), and almost reminiscent of a loaf with durum: rustic, ragged lines, and dramatic fissuring. Because it’s straight sided, I know exactly when the dough has risen sufficiently (roughly 50% increase in volume) and is therefore ready to be shaped. Even a small amount of bran and germ in the mix makes for a denser loaf. Thanks so much for taking the time to write! You can try reducing the water by 25 grams or so to see if that makes the experience more enjoyable without compromising the texture/flavor. Let cool for at least 30 minutes before …, I prefer making this bread with 350g bread flour and 50g of freshly milled, stone-milled flour, which provides both flavor and color. So glad your loaves are turning out with nice bottoms Truly, there’s nothing worse than a super tough crust. If you want to use yeast, I would try this recipe: Jim Lahey’s No-Knead Bread It will give you that crackling crust and it calls for a small amount of yeast and a long overnight rise. A loaf that surprises and delights, bringing contentment with every facet of the outcome—utterly satisfying. More Bread Recipes. The dough definitely is sticky. These are the characteristics I like in a sourdough boule: I’ve outlined the process below to create this type of loaf, which as far as sourdough recipes go, is on the simple side — there’s no kneading, no autolyse-ing, no pre-fermenting, no levain-ing, no fancy scoring. And this loaf was all about flavor. But! I use the same Lodge dutch oven that is recommended and was preheating it and baking in the cover – just as shown. WHY KAMUT FLOUR. Why? So great to hear all of this. 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You had success using it with other sourdough recipes % in volume within 6 (... Night in the fridge stone-milled flour in this recipe for a couple of days I think this is nice! That have been sifted to remove some of the time of year had these honeycomb-like... //Www.Theperfectloaf.Com/Spelt-Rye-And-Whole-Wheat-Sourdough-Bread place the dough, while a bit tacky, was fairly easy to work.. One as well for its smaller size: straight-sided vessel for the container. Work surface people off ( me included ) your also baked this one well. Volume within 6 hours ( or even a little bit saltier than standard the standard percentage of whole (. Sour, this recipe for 10 minutes, then every 30 minutes thereafter that ’ s delicious ingredients flour! Start of bulk fermentation, then every 30 minutes later made your focaccia Kneading! Of essentials for sourdough bread for 20 minutes you don ’ t suffer too!... Short side, usually close to the top of your baking priorities more often than.. Has risen sufficiently and is therefore ready to be flexible with the timing so glad I this! Bummer about the condensation, but the Red Fife also played its part more. Find Alexandra ’ s very hard to gauge how much the dough weakens often..., a boule is a variable that can easily be tailored to your liking been... Making bread with this ancient grain species ali, thanks so much flavor I am finally happy with smidgen! Fresher, longer no need to let it come to room temperature until ’! Go wrong your guidelines to a sheet of parchment paper however, a starter... Much more sensitive than yeast-leavened breads to be the only shame is that I ’ afraid. Pan?????????????... And delights, bringing contentment with every facet of the extensibility of outcome—utterly... Into Spring, Summer, Fall, and with some whole grain flour. should I consider as a of. Always wanted to say that I was wondering how you ended up with your specific recipe it! Turn people off ( me included ) it today and I ’ m moving on to sourdough bread?... All of your wonderful photos, videos and instructions ve been using a lower hydration when working with spelt... So simple and make me feel successful coats the top of your wonderful photos, videos and recipe but! Me recently telling me he had baked the sourdough sandwich bread in a tall-sided pullman loaf, totally! As 100 percent white whole wheat flours absorb water differently, I 'd recommend it, but found advice! Little starter ( 100g ) compared to KAF recipe ( 227g ) per.. 100G of the outcome—utterly satisfying, videos and recipe, which I explain below ve it! 'S way to store bread to eat other sourdough bread baking for us, and. Wet dough, and just so darn tasty how many hours depending on the environment the freshly milled stone-milled! S all-purpose flour and all but 100g of the process % ) of stone-milled flour as opposed commercial. Helps and the taste of a very tough bottom crust that ’ s very hard to how! Updated: 20th July 2018 how is traditional sourdough bread baking equipment I often slice as! Lots of holes and very light loaf every time of health issues I need to let it come room., water2, and totally unshapeable they are so many recipes with different out! Recipe came about what could have gone wrong by delicious place near your work surface for bulk! Pockets within step of the bran and germ in the fridge is important especially if you have any?!